The heat is on (almost)

If you've been following, you'll know that I've been vacillating about whether or not to fit a heater to Elmer. I looked at loads of options, catalytic gas (unsafe for small spaces), propane (expensive and hard to fit although you do get hot water as well), and diesel. When the prices of the Chinese copies fell a bit further in January I thought that for £97 it was a good option. All it needs to do is save me 2 nights in a B&B to pay for itself.

its a 5kw diesel heater

Short recap:
My Delica in a Super Exceed model with the 'winter pack' which gives, amongst other things, a separate rear heating and AC system. Neither of them work so it was no bother to remove them. It was an easy job, hack 2 AC pipes, disconnect and block 2 heater (water) pipes and remove 3 bolts (2 sheared) and it fell out to leave a really good space, ideal for the heater.

as fitted

as removed

Next job was to see how the heater would fit and while it would slip into that space perfectly, even nestling up at the top with enough space for the heater pipes to use the original vent system, it was instantly clear that it would be very exposed to all the crap of the day when driving and likely to break as a result. These heaters are really designed to be fitted inside the cab.

So I looked for the best place inside and it was immediately obvious that behind the driver's seat was best. It did not impede the driver's seat, didn't take up much leg space for the rear passenger, still allowed the rear seat to slide although full rotation can only happen when fully at the back. One slight downside is that the rear seat needs to be orientated one specific way to make up the bed but that's not a real bother.

In the photo above you can see the rough position. A number of holes need to be drilled to fit the support/spreader plate which goes underneath. I put the plate on top, drilled the first 4 [central] mounting holes then bolted it in place (on top). I then drilled the big heater inlet and exhaust holes.

Yeah, I know my bench is messy, so sue me!

lots going on here - explained below

The plate was then mounted underneath, the last of the holes drilled and bolted up, no mean feat on your own. The plastic bag behind the vent is to block it off now I'm not using it so I don't get drafts and damp. I'll do the same with the central one but the rear one is going to get left open so ensure some fresh air always comes in to the 'van.

it's rotated for some reason but you get the idea

So far so good. Next I offered up the heater itself and it slotted in perfectly. The inlet is forward facing and blowing the heat to the rear where I'll fit a heater tube to direct the heat towards the sliding door.
It fits perfectly

this is as far as the seat can go forwards but that leaves no legroom anyway

I can sit sideways (to look out the door or eat at the table) at any point

with the seat flat to make the bed there's loads of clearance

Nice job, took about 90 minutes. The wiring is un piece de piss but the BIG job is to plumb the fuel pipe in without cutting into the car's fuel line, or fuel tank, or use the horrible fuel tank supplied.

My first idea looked like it would work, and it's something I've done in the past on old cars needing modern electronic thermostats; slide the pipe down the filler pipe and into the tank!

WARNING - this gets a bit in depth and may be boring because I didn't want to do it twice so I didn't take many photos.

first remove the 3 bolts holding the filler neck

this rubber boot just pops off to reveal where the filler neck joins the rubber hose

Removing the filler neck assembly is realtively straightforward

• remove the 3 bolts holding the filler neck in place
• undo the clip holing the filler hose on to the tank 
• IMPORTANT: make sure your tank isn't full - I put my front left wheel on a tall ramp to avoid fuel spillage
• lever off the boot covering the back of the filler neck (use a screwdriver - its v easy)
• wiggle the filler neck assembly down until you see the overflow pipe. 
• release the overflow pipe clip (its not tight, fingers will suffice) 
• advance warning - this is a real hassle to put back on, unless you're a gynaecologist
• remove it all and you're left with this

 

Next, using a pencil or pen, mark the position of the hose on the metal pipe. This will save you a tone of heartache later. The hose and neck are orientated in a specific way and once you fit the heater fuel pipe you won;t be able to loosen and rotate the clip.

remove the hose and run the fuel pipe through the rubber hose by about 1m then slide the hose back over the metal pipe. You want the heater fuel pipe to be on the top (ie with the overflow pipe to the right as you look at it). Ease the clip back over (I had to lever it on with a small screwdriver). This isn't mission critical but will minimise refitting hassle and the chance of leakage. It should now look like this

You'll see the gaps either side of the pipe, we will fill these gaps with slivers of thin rubber hose (fuel safe preferred) simply pushed down either side. Don't make then too long, they've just to reach the flare on the metal pipe. It will now look like this

 Carefully tighten the hose clamp until the rubber inserts flatten. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. The hose clamp will not crimp the pipe on the flare because its higher up than that. Remember, this is not a pressurised part of the fuel system, it it simply to prevent leaks when the tank is full or when fuels slops.

To make sure heater fuel pipe reaches the bottom of the tank, I used a length of stainless steel TIG welding wire cable tied to the outside to keep it straight. I looped the top 2" and bottom 3" for rigidity and left the end of the bottom loop about 1cm proud to kee the end of the pipe off the actual bottom of the tank in case it got blocked by any dirt in there.

So far so easy, now to refit it.

You remembered to line the marks on the rubber hose and metal pipe? 

First thing is to feed the heater fuel pipe through the same hole the overflow pipe goes through. It leads directly over the fuel tank and allows you to easily route the pipe away from the rear propshaft and the exhaust. Good core strength and long thin arms are helpful for this bit

Next carefully push the pipe into the tank. There is an anti-syphon device and a couple of baffles to navigate but with luck and patience you'll get there.

and this is best photo I got

Slide the rubber boot back on and start putting the metal filler neck back in to place. You now need to reach in to that hole, fold the overflow pipe back on itself while holding the retaining clip on the metal pipe. There is only space for one hand and you can't see what you're doing so its by feel only. Luckily the overflow pipe is not a tight fit so once it's on you're good. Note to self: 1 minute to type but it took 10 minutes to do!

That done, rotate and wiggle until everything is in place (take care not to fold the wee plastic pipe) and tighten clips, replace bolts and fuel cap and you're almost there. Invisible from the MOT tester's eyes and protected from damage.

Route the  fuel pipe over the top of the exhaust heat shield, cable tie in to place and fit the fuel filter and pump as per instructions. I sucked on the pipe until I saw fuel coming through just to make sure.

That's as far as I got. 90 minutes to fit the heater, 4 hours to fit the fuel pipe and do the rest of the fitting! Last job will be to wire it up and test. Then I'll do a wee video showing the installation.

More later