cheap, chinese, crap instructions but actually rather good

This post is really mainly for my information, and for anyone thinking about buying one of these £100 cab heaters.

• buy one from UK stock, it means there's someone here to deal with issues
• the instruction are shit but help is available on youtube

review and test video

LCD panel instructions

4 button remote control pairing

LCD remote control setup - note: to increase range put it on top of your phone!

I've ordered the later blue LCD panel and red LED remote - we will see how that works

The heat is on, it's on the street

Some of my best ideas, and worst realisations, happen in the middle of the night. Last night I realised that I'd installed the heater back to front, d'oh. So this morning I got a pile of paperwork out the way and went out to finish the job.

Heater unbolted, fuel pipe disconnected and then the fuel pipe hole in the floor had to be redrilled and the plastic interior trim cut back, and the main wiring loom moved out the way, so the heater would fit with the outlet facing forwards. This will allow the warm air to be directed out into the main living space rather than simply superheating the space under the bed.

Watch the video at the bottom of the page.....

I found that there was a bit of a pong from the heater, assumed to be from first use but no, it was from the exhaust fumes coming in through the now redundant original vents. I did my trick with the plastic bags behind the vent covers and Job Done.

I have 2 important jobs to finish before I can say Elmer is converted bar the fettling and finishing.

1. install the wiring for the rear/living area along with the split charge system
2. varnish the plywood.

So, after a bite of lunch, and a quick dog walk, I went out and fired up the heater (which worked perfectly of course - I'd sucked in 3/4 of a filter full of fuel using an extra bit of hose) and cleaned out all the dust and bits while the 'van warmed up. Jacket off and get varnishing ... took about 45 minutes to get it all done, all the while lovely heat was blowing out the heater (the varnish needs more than 10c to soak in). In 4 hours it will b ready for a 2nd coat and then 24 hours to cure.

Later this week I'll get the wiring done & then I can use Elmer as a camper and potter at the remaining jobs (in no specific order)

• complete the kitchen/stove drawer
• choose and fit vinyl flooring to the 'living room'
• make insulated window blinds

The heat is on (almost)

If you've been following, you'll know that I've been vacillating about whether or not to fit a heater to Elmer. I looked at loads of options, catalytic gas (unsafe for small spaces), propane (expensive and hard to fit although you do get hot water as well), and diesel. When the prices of the Chinese copies fell a bit further in January I thought that for £97 it was a good option. All it needs to do is save me 2 nights in a B&B to pay for itself.

its a 5kw diesel heater

Short recap:
My Delica in a Super Exceed model with the 'winter pack' which gives, amongst other things, a separate rear heating and AC system. Neither of them work so it was no bother to remove them. It was an easy job, hack 2 AC pipes, disconnect and block 2 heater (water) pipes and remove 3 bolts (2 sheared) and it fell out to leave a really good space, ideal for the heater.

as fitted

as removed

Next job was to see how the heater would fit and while it would slip into that space perfectly, even nestling up at the top with enough space for the heater pipes to use the original vent system, it was instantly clear that it would be very exposed to all the crap of the day when driving and likely to break as a result. These heaters are really designed to be fitted inside the cab.

So I looked for the best place inside and it was immediately obvious that behind the driver's seat was best. It did not impede the driver's seat, didn't take up much leg space for the rear passenger, still allowed the rear seat to slide although full rotation can only happen when fully at the back. One slight downside is that the rear seat needs to be orientated one specific way to make up the bed but that's not a real bother.

In the photo above you can see the rough position. A number of holes need to be drilled to fit the support/spreader plate which goes underneath. I put the plate on top, drilled the first 4 [central] mounting holes then bolted it in place (on top). I then drilled the big heater inlet and exhaust holes.

Yeah, I know my bench is messy, so sue me!

lots going on here - explained below

The plate was then mounted underneath, the last of the holes drilled and bolted up, no mean feat on your own. The plastic bag behind the vent is to block it off now I'm not using it so I don't get drafts and damp. I'll do the same with the central one but the rear one is going to get left open so ensure some fresh air always comes in to the 'van.

it's rotated for some reason but you get the idea

So far so good. Next I offered up the heater itself and it slotted in perfectly. The inlet is forward facing and blowing the heat to the rear where I'll fit a heater tube to direct the heat towards the sliding door.
It fits perfectly

this is as far as the seat can go forwards but that leaves no legroom anyway

I can sit sideways (to look out the door or eat at the table) at any point

with the seat flat to make the bed there's loads of clearance

Nice job, took about 90 minutes. The wiring is un piece de piss but the BIG job is to plumb the fuel pipe in without cutting into the car's fuel line, or fuel tank, or use the horrible fuel tank supplied.

My first idea looked like it would work, and it's something I've done in the past on old cars needing modern electronic thermostats; slide the pipe down the filler pipe and into the tank!

WARNING - this gets a bit in depth and may be boring because I didn't want to do it twice so I didn't take many photos.

first remove the 3 bolts holding the filler neck

this rubber boot just pops off to reveal where the filler neck joins the rubber hose

Removing the filler neck assembly is realtively straightforward

• remove the 3 bolts holding the filler neck in place
• undo the clip holing the filler hose on to the tank 
• IMPORTANT: make sure your tank isn't full - I put my front left wheel on a tall ramp to avoid fuel spillage
• lever off the boot covering the back of the filler neck (use a screwdriver - its v easy)
• wiggle the filler neck assembly down until you see the overflow pipe. 
• release the overflow pipe clip (its not tight, fingers will suffice) 
• advance warning - this is a real hassle to put back on, unless you're a gynaecologist
• remove it all and you're left with this

 

Next, using a pencil or pen, mark the position of the hose on the metal pipe. This will save you a tone of heartache later. The hose and neck are orientated in a specific way and once you fit the heater fuel pipe you won;t be able to loosen and rotate the clip.

remove the hose and run the fuel pipe through the rubber hose by about 1m then slide the hose back over the metal pipe. You want the heater fuel pipe to be on the top (ie with the overflow pipe to the right as you look at it). Ease the clip back over (I had to lever it on with a small screwdriver). This isn't mission critical but will minimise refitting hassle and the chance of leakage. It should now look like this

You'll see the gaps either side of the pipe, we will fill these gaps with slivers of thin rubber hose (fuel safe preferred) simply pushed down either side. Don't make then too long, they've just to reach the flare on the metal pipe. It will now look like this

 Carefully tighten the hose clamp until the rubber inserts flatten. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. The hose clamp will not crimp the pipe on the flare because its higher up than that. Remember, this is not a pressurised part of the fuel system, it it simply to prevent leaks when the tank is full or when fuels slops.

To make sure heater fuel pipe reaches the bottom of the tank, I used a length of stainless steel TIG welding wire cable tied to the outside to keep it straight. I looped the top 2" and bottom 3" for rigidity and left the end of the bottom loop about 1cm proud to kee the end of the pipe off the actual bottom of the tank in case it got blocked by any dirt in there.

So far so easy, now to refit it.

You remembered to line the marks on the rubber hose and metal pipe? 

First thing is to feed the heater fuel pipe through the same hole the overflow pipe goes through. It leads directly over the fuel tank and allows you to easily route the pipe away from the rear propshaft and the exhaust. Good core strength and long thin arms are helpful for this bit

Next carefully push the pipe into the tank. There is an anti-syphon device and a couple of baffles to navigate but with luck and patience you'll get there.

and this is best photo I got

Slide the rubber boot back on and start putting the metal filler neck back in to place. You now need to reach in to that hole, fold the overflow pipe back on itself while holding the retaining clip on the metal pipe. There is only space for one hand and you can't see what you're doing so its by feel only. Luckily the overflow pipe is not a tight fit so once it's on you're good. Note to self: 1 minute to type but it took 10 minutes to do!

That done, rotate and wiggle until everything is in place (take care not to fold the wee plastic pipe) and tighten clips, replace bolts and fuel cap and you're almost there. Invisible from the MOT tester's eyes and protected from damage.

Route the  fuel pipe over the top of the exhaust heat shield, cable tie in to place and fit the fuel filter and pump as per instructions. I sucked on the pipe until I saw fuel coming through just to make sure.

That's as far as I got. 90 minutes to fit the heater, 4 hours to fit the fuel pipe and do the rest of the fitting! Last job will be to wire it up and test. Then I'll do a wee video showing the installation.

More later

Waiting for the delivery guy has become a hobby, nay an occupation

In the final stages of any project like this, I'm collecting parts then to have a fitting fest. Here's the list of parts so far:

• 5kw diesel cabin heater (arrived yesterday)
• 3 x usb power outlets
• 1 x voltmeter display
• 1 x voltage sensing relay (for split charge system)

Job list

• fit the cabin heater where the standard rear heating/aircon system was, under the floor
• I'll use the original vents to take the [recirculated] air to be heated out and the warm air back in
• attempt to take the fuel supply from the car's fuel tank
• power from the leisure/deep cycle battery under the bonnet
• there are 2 large batteries under bonnet as standard (Japanese winter pack - unnecessary in Europe)
• use the VSR to isolate one battery for running the power when the engine's off (eventually I'll fit a special leisure battery)
• leave the other battery as a dedicated starter battery
• switch the permanent live sockets at the front to the leisure battery
• install 2 x 21A circuits from the leisure battery
• one to the panel at the sliding door
• one to the very rear of the vehicle
• install a voltmeter to the sliding door panel to keep an eye on battery performance
• make the rear drawer into a cooker/stove/larder/store
• properly fix the camper boxes to the floor 
• varnish all the plywood
• make insulated window blinds (and fixing system)
• remove curtains
• get the front AC fixed (pipes need to be sealed) and remove rear condenser

In between all of this I'll be able to do some test loading and see what other bits and bobs I can do to add in storage and access. And go on some test trips

The end is near, which is a Good Thing

With the cab heater on it's way from Walsall (or China, more likely) for a mere £97, I had to get busy finishing the interior so I can focus on fitting the heater and going on a few test trips.

The heater is 400mm long and that means it should fit beautifully between the vents that used to be fitted to the rear heater (double one on the left above, and A/C on the right). I plan to draw the 'cool' air (i.e. the air to be heated) from the AC vent which is under the bed and blow it in to the front vents which feed both floor level behind the driver's seat and the rear overhead vents.

So, on with the interior

If you remember from previous posts I've got the layout pretty much sorted.

• rear drawer will be the kitchen and larder. I have 2 Camping Gaz clip on stoves which are brilliant (and I have a dozen large canisters which last ages).
• Each stove mounts on the canister which will be set into a hole cut into an aluminium plate for stability
• the side of the drawer will be cust away to allow access for controlling the stove but also act as a windbreak
• the back half of the drawer will be storage for cooking utensils, tins etc

the cooking area mocked up

drawer fully extended

Next was to fit the 3rd drawer on top of the 'table' drawer in such a way it cna slide forwards but doesn't impede the kitchen. Answer? Put a lid on 2/3rds of the table drawer and bolt the top box to it, set back to the shelf in the back.

• The finishing piece to square up the sliding door area has also been done, in 12mm ply, and will carry USB charging ports and maybe a 13A socket connected to an inverter.
• the space over the wheel arch will remain open for loose storage of sleeping bags, window blinds, jackets etc
• the table sits perfectly in the gap between the front drawers and the side panel.

the front 1/3rd of the table drawer has a lid to finish it off

I just need some nice hinges

the top box just missed the rear shelf

All I need now is a warm enough day (over 10C) to get the inside varnished and then I can do some test packing and see what other wee jobs are needed.

Job List

• make the kitchen stove area from aluminium sheet
• wire up the split charge system
• fit charging sockets
• fit the night heater
• varnish the interior
• make window blinds
• test load/pack
• get away for a test trip.

It's the weekend so that means pottering with the conversion

Saturday 18th Jan
After a few days of doing actual work that may earn me money it's the weekend and although it is baltic out there (bloody freezing) I have the removal of the rear ventilation system in my sights. Why do that you may ask, well read on ...

Reasons to remove

• it doesn't work
• the rear aircon simply does nothing
• the rear heatng system blows air around and that's about it
• If the rear heating matrix is gummed up it could end up blocking the front one which would be a real pain to replace
• its a very useful space under the rear floor that should allow me to fit a diesel cab heater which will blow warm air in through the existing vent system and not lose me any space inside the 'van

heater unit in situ, AC is at the rear (right)

AC unit

Only downside is having to lie on literally freezing concrete while I drill out bolts to dismantle & remove parts that have not been touched in over 25 years.

More later ......

Well, that was easier than I thought. Basically the whole conjoined unit is held on by 3 bolts which conveniently sheared as I undid them. I had to hack the AC pipes with a knife because the whole thing had seized. The water pipes came off easily and were temporarily plugged by some very large bolts while I decide whether to leave them blanked or link them to maintain circulation.

I'm left with 1 double open vent which links to the inside bottom and top vents, and another to the rear which goes to the floor area under the bed. I plan to fit the heater with 'cold' (to be heated) air coming from the rear vent and heated air being blown in to the front vents. I've still to figure out how to sort out the fuel supply; ideally it will come from the vehicle fuel tank but that can be tricky. The heater comes with a 15l fuel tank and a very long fuel pipe so I can either fit that tank somewhere convenient, or use the fuel pipe to make a 'drop in' hose for the filler.

I've bought a 2kw-5kw chinese unit - opinions vary as to their quality but at under £100 it's not a huge investment.

I've also bagged a used 3 way (240v/12v/gas) absorption fridge which looks like new, for 1/3rd the retail price. It may be too big but if I use it as an awning fridge ....

Sunday's forecast is cold but bright. I may tackle the last of the basic woodwork and start on fitting out the kitchen, i.e. see if my ideas have legs.

When the weather is crap drink tea and think

It's freezing cold, wet and stormy so rather than spend an evening freezing my bits off I'm back to thinking and planning - I do a lot of it.

Window blinds

Elmer came with funky electrically operated curtains which have zero thermal insulation properties and offer limited privacy so they're coming out in favour of home made insulated window panels.

Now I'm not bothered about blackout but I'm heading to the Arctic in June, which reminds me of a story.

In 2010, my friends Alan & Karen Hill and I went on our motorbikes to Nordkapp. In fact my trip is part of a promise I made to myself that I would repeat the journey because I found the high Arctic so enthralling. Our plan was to head north from Oslo as fast as we could through Sweden (higher speed limits) to get to Norkapp in 4 days. When we arrived there we came across a couple of guys on their BMW GS's (like mine) who had ridden up from Ankara, Turkey and had got so confused by the almost constant, then continuous daylight that they'd not slept for 10 days.

They could not believe that we had no problems with the 24 hour daylight until we explained that in Scotland in June/July it was light for as much as 18 hours a day, especially in good weather so we were used to it. In fact, we have all got in from school/work and had a wee snooze then woken up with a start to see the clock reading 9:00 and having no idea if it was 9pm or 9am and we'd slept in!

Yup I was a tellytubby on a 2009 BMW 1200GS A

Norkapp ... note the time

It was freezing .. well, it was midnight

At Norkapp, in glorious sunshine, at midnight, in 2deg C

 For more photos of that trip take a look at my Flickr album CLICK HERE

Where was I? Oh yes, window blinds .... I've ordered some aluminium wrapped bubblewrap insulation which I'll cut to shape and glue on to some old sleeping bags to make window blinds which will be held in using ingenious plastic clips (more on that when I've thought it through). Cost per blind will be about £5 each and I'll need 5 for the back and 3 for the front. Simple, cheap  and hopefully effective.

Kitchen

I have about 7 or 8 Camping Gaz canisters left from the 12 I bought 10 years ago, thinking I would go through 4 or 5 on the bike trip (I used 1.5). The stove top I have clips on to the cylinder and is not that stable so I've bought a couple of small but stable stoves that have a remote connector and these will sit inside the drawer which I'll line with aluminium to prevent the wood going on fire.

Heating

Not decided if I need it. I'm not planning any trips where I won't have electric hookup for a 2kw oil filled radiator before summer comes and surely Elmer won't be colder than a tent so a couple of good sleeping bags/blankets will do just fine.

Power

 This is something I have lots of experience with from setting up BIG electric winches on my 4x4 competition vehicles.
Elmer came with two 120Ah batteries as standard and with all my lighting (like I'll need much in the Arctic) being led, my phone/laptop etc all being battery powered and mostly charged while driving, I'm not sure I'll need much in the way of auxiliary/leisure power. I have three 22Ah batteries I use to run the ignition on my veteran car which as very small and I could take them connected to a voltage sensing relay as a 'twin battery' set up. Again, the total cost of that would be about £25 plus dipping into my stock of bits left over from previous projects

Storage

The more I look at what I have, the more I think I have oodles of storage space. I'm quite an efficient traveller, 25 years on motorbikes has taught me how to travel light and I think the 3 biggest items will be my portable fridge, portapotti and clothes. I have a 'thing' for storage boxes so I've been thinking about how to use the space effectively and may come up with a way of having things boxed up so I'm not just flinging everything willy-nilly.

Part of that game is to work out how to store all things you need the most in the easiest to access places and the stuff you hope you'll never need (like tools, first aid kit, imodium, shotgun) where you have to unload everything go get at them. I'm pretty good at that part but I have set myself a challenge of having a completely clear sitting/dining area so I don't have play campervan chess each time I stop for a cuppa.

Ah well, work beckons. I need a decent lottery win so I can tell everyone to bugger off.

Later.